I feel a sense of triumph when I find the wet markets. Fresh fish stalls line the corridors as shop keepers beckon to show me their wares. I recognise sea bass, sole, skate, salmon and squid as fresh fish is filleted as orders come in. The whole sea bass I choose is prepared and I am given spices to marinate the fish in. In our apartment we cut the head and tail and put a variety of spices in a large pot of water to make fish stock.
In the cavity of the fish, we put curry leaves and limes and spread the mixture of herbs (chillies, mustard seeds, black pepper, garlic) and knobs of butter liberally over the fish and bake it in a parcel of tin foil. The fish is tender and juicy, as we add pickled cucumber salad, butter lettuce and home made chilli sauce to the plate. We pan fry fine chips remembering earlier advice that 'I shouldn't worry about the oil because we are in Malaysia.'
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